Summer 2011
Ishan Kilise was built by Georgians that kept a Christian island, surrounded by a Muslim crowd in the 7th century. It's still there, built high up, watching the beautiful view of Kackar Mountains, enjoying a privilege that we no longer have.
I was guiding in Turkey 5 good years. I have enjoyed the view of the Kackar Mountains and the bright white pillars of capadokia. I have enjoyed driving or hiking, swimming in the cold spring water everywhere and taking my groups to places that I just got to know with the help of our Turkish team. I have enjoyed learning about the great Ataturk and give a part of his legacy to visitors. I have enjoyed a hot burek from the bakery of Artvin, or fish served wrapped with vine leaves on the Kuprulu river. I love the view, I love the size and the beauty of it, but I mostly love the people and the Turkish hospitality. I had never come across such hospitality anywhere else in the world.
Although I am sure it is still there, I know it shell never be the same for me. Working in a place is not like being a visitor. You get to know people along the route and can follow the changing of the seasons. The awakening of the mountains after the snow melts, the great flowers that are flowering higher in altitude as time goes, and the people preparing themselves for the winter. Collecting firewood, harvesting the crops, drying fruits everywhere they can. Like a huge nest of busy aunts, working hard but still having the time to smile and welcome travelers to drink a small hot cup of tea with them.
Although I am sure it is still there, I know it shell never be the same for me. Working in a place is not like being a visitor. You get to know people along the route and can follow the changing of the seasons. The awakening of the mountains after the snow melts, the great flowers that are flowering higher in altitude as time goes, and the people preparing themselves for the winter. Collecting firewood, harvesting the crops, drying fruits everywhere they can. Like a huge nest of busy aunts, working hard but still having the time to smile and welcome travelers to drink a small hot cup of tea with them.
I heard blames coming from both sides in a very unfair way. I heard remarks said out of the situation that Israel and Turkey found themselves in. Some of the remarks were ignorant, some resist. But all was telling me one thing- it will take years to heal, if at all.
Some times while being in a situation you can't imagine it'll ever end. But when it does, you'd give much to return to a specific moment, to a simple thing that you use to have in your everyday life. To a morning walk in Rose valey before the day in Cappadokia is becoming too hot, or a free afternoon in Ayder when the group is in the hot spring. To a conversation with my dear friend Mehmet, his broken English with my broken Turkish. To a drive with Shaban that knows the roads of Kackar better than anyone. To Lunch at Ibo when the Firtina strong current is taking over the conversation around the table and you can only listen and eat hot hot Muhlame, to a visit up in Ishan Killise that strikes you with the beauty of it. The small and the big things and the magic of it all.
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